Friday, July 31, 2009

Ventimiglia

On Monday, the four of us took a (truly awful) train to the great little town of Ventimiglia on the Italian Riviera, where I studied the Barma Grande crania. While I didn’t get to spend much time enjoying the incredibly beautiful Mediterranean beaches, Tressa, Mel, and Joe rented a seaside umbrella and laid-out to soak up the rays. I on the other hand spent pretty much the whole day trying to figure out where the museum was (it’s not actually in Ventimiglia), communicating with museum staff in broken French, measuring the crania, and attempting to find a taxi to avoid having to haul my equipment the 8 km back to the train station on foot (it was “tres chaud” that day).

The Barma Grande crania

After finally getting the whole taxi thing sorted out, we all spent a little time on the beach, and then ate dinner at a little seaside restaurant. Tressa and I split a terrific “frutti di mare” pizza covered in mussels, clams, calamari, and all sorts of other great seafood.

Wednesday, July 29, 2009

Genoa

On Friday, July 17, we took a scenic train ride through the French countryside to Genoa, Italy. Getting to see the interior of France was great, especially as we went through the hill country, where I could just imagine all the Neandertals that had probably lived in the little rock shelters dotting the landscape. I also got a big kick out of seeing the farmlands covered in nothing but white Charolais cattle. My grandfather and uncle have been Charolais ranchers in Texas for decades, but in America the breed is still relatively rare (but becoming increasingly popular due to their superior quality). Melanie and Joe Horst (our friends from Wiesbaden, Germany) arrived in Genoa the same night we did to spend a few days of their vacation with us in Italy. Genoa is an interesting town, unlike most of the major tourist cities in Italy, Genoa is clearly “working-class”, serving as one of the most important Italian ports.



Even though Genoa is not really a tourist town, there was still plenty of things to see there. We climbed Genoa’s famous lighthouse which was close to our hotel, we walked through the “old town” and found Christopher Columbus’ house (actually a replica since Napoleon blew up the original), saw several beautiful cathedrals, basilicas and palaces, we ate great Italian food on the harbor, and visited the marina after sunset.



Sunday, July 19, 2009

Paris.


We didn't get so spend nearly enough time in Paris. We got to stay near the Institut de Paleotologie Humaine on the the trendy Avenue des Gobelins, and had a lot fun, but the ridiculous Italian trains required that we cut our stay n Paris a day short (the only available train to Genoa was early Friday morning). Regardless, we had a lot of fun. I spent most of my time at the Institute, where I got to hang out with Amelie Vialet (IPH), Jean-Luc Voisin (IPH), and and Jim Ahern (U. Wyoming). Tressa on the other hand got to see the Museum D'Orsay, St. Michel Basilica, and Notre Dame Cathedral. We did, of course, make it out to the Eiffel Tower for a night of fun on the Seine.

Friday, July 17, 2009

The Netherlands

After leaving London on Saturday July 11th, we took the chunnel to Brussels and then took several trains up to the Netherlands so I could work at the Natural History Museum or "Naturalis" in the city of Leiden. In a lot of ways this "work" trip was a great opportunity to go back home, as my family and I lived in the suburban city of Wassenaar in the late 1980's (my little sister Caroline was actually born there). Getting to the Netherlands on Saturday allowed us to spend all day Sunday in Wassenaar revisting my old stomping grounds. We took the bus from our hotel in the small town of Leiderdorp (just west of Leiden) to Wassenaar in the morning and walked through the town looking for my old street Dominee Honderslaan. Once we found my old house (#11) I was amazed at how much I actually remembered about my old neighborhood considering it's been nearly 20 years since I lived there. I remembered that my room used to be on the top (3rd) floor of the house witht the left window; I remembered that my mom had planted little 3 foot tall evergreen trees as a natural fence (they're about 10 feet tall
now); I remebered that our pet hampster "hampy" was buried in the flower bed in the backyard; I remembered trapping mice in the shed with my dad; I remembered falling into the pond across the street while trying to catch frogs, getting out covered in pond scum, then stepping on a rust nail, letting go of my bike in pain which then proceeded to roll into the pond, having to go backing into the water to retreive the bike, hopping on one foot back to the house looking for comfort from my mother only to be told that I couldn't come into the house covered in pond scum and bleeding frot he foot, being forced to strip down to my whitey-tighties on the front porch to be hosed down with an ice cold garden hose, and then finally having to go to the doctor to get a tetanus shot...good memories. But seriously, I do have a lot a great memories from Wassenaar. Somehow I managed to remember the location of a great little pancake house a few blocks from my house where Tressa and I ended up having lunch (we shared a classic dutch strawberry and cream pancake). We managed to find the main walking steet in Wassenaar near the town's windmill. We found the old bakery where we would go as kids to get little almond cakes and fruit-covered custard tarts (I don't care what anyone says, nobody makes pasteries better than the Dutch!). We found the old toy store where I bought my weight in Transformers action figures as a kid (ironically enough, they are now selling them again becuase of the new movies...I'm expecting a Thundercats movie ASAP!). We had a great time in Wassenaar, and I was really glad that Tressa finally got to see where I grew up.

On Monday, we took the bus from Leiderdorp to Leiden so I could work at the Naturalis Museum. The Naturalis Museum houses all of the archaeological and paleoanthropological material excavated by the illustrious Eugene Dubois (The first professional paleoanthropologist and discoverer of H. erectus). I was there to specifically study the terminal Pleistocene Wadjak 1 and 2 specimens. As Tressa and I were walking to the museum, out of the corner of my eye, I caught sight of two other people wheeling equipment towards the museum, it was none other than Matt Tocheri (who I had just seen in Belgium 3 weeks earlier) and Bill Jungers who were there to study some neolithic H. sapiens remains from Java as part of their ongoing research on Flores. After lunch, the curator, Rainer van Zelst, took as all into the museum to see the exhibits. The highlight of the museum for any paleoanthropologist is the Trinil skullcap and femur which are on public display when not being studied by visiting researchers. Other interesting exhibits included the world oldest rock (3.8 billion years old), A fantastic skeleton of a mammoth, and a skeleton of a dwarfed elephant.

Saturday, July 11, 2009

London: Weeks 2 & 3

The second and third weeks in London just seemed to fly by. Most of my time at the museum was spent studying modern skulls from Africa and Australia, which, while incredibly important to my project, just aren't as interesting as fossils. On my last two days I raided the Museum's cast room and found a some gems: a Mario Chech reconstruction of Skhul 4, two really high quality casts of Kow Swamp 5 and 15, and a plaster reconstruction of the full Shanidar 4 face, to name a few. During the second week, Joel Irish, A professor at the University of Alaska Fairbanks was in town looking at the same West African skulls as me. As he was going through some of the inventory books looking for information on some Nigerian skulls, he found the original entry logs for the Piltdown remains, entered in, fragment by fragment, as the type fossils for Eoanthropus dawsoni. If you don't know about the Piltdown man scandal, do yourself a favor and google it.

Definitely the highlight of the non-research experiences during the last two weeks in London was touring Westminster Abbey, which turned out to be well worth the exorbitant (student price) entry fee, if for no other reason, because my boy Chuck D is buried there (along with a LOT of other people). There was a really good audio guide presented by Jeremy Irons, who seems to have a global monopoly on the English language audio guide market (with the exception of ancient Egyptian exhibits, Omar Sharif locked down that gig years ago). Other great experiences during the last two weeks in London included watching the sunset on Waterloo Bridge, having a pint at the Lyceum Tavern, and eating fish and chips at St. Pancras Station.